Question: What effects can be created by manipulating a basic pattern to apply subtle complexity?
Inspiration: Tomoko Nakamichi’s Pattern Magic and Pattern Magic 2 illustrate brilliant case studies of ways to manipulate a basic bodice pattern to create shapes, structures or effects. Specifically, the “Like a Jungle” example in Pattern Magic 2, where she split the bodice into strips of overlapping fabric. This made me curious how this type of manipulation could be applied to various silhouettes in various forms? What it would look like with other textiles?
Process:
- Decide on basic silhouette and structure of garment
- Give it a shot. Used basic pattern, muslin and dye for initial case study. Learned importance of perfecting fit before adding manipulation. Gathering at neckline is a distraction from effect. Love the gradient of dip dye.
- Explore possible line/cut variations of where pattern will be deconstructed and reassembles
- Explore textile variations
- Explore twists, knots, braids
Execution:
- Rather than use above ill fitting pattern drape muslin to fit and construct basic dress consisting of two pieces (front and back)
- Decided on racerback with a slight dip in the rear hemline
- Finalized cut out and twist pattern
- Cut and reassemble muslin to verify fit adjustments before final fabric is cut
- Serge all edges and construct all top pieces as close to twist as possible
- Finish edges within the twist
- Construct bottom of dress
- Construct lining using original pattern and sew to inside to finish arm and neck seams
- Hem the bottom
Future Exploration:
- Ways to draw attention to the manipulation, like dye, varied textiles including options with distinct front/back
- Other manipulation that didn’t result in a flat (or near flat) outcome, maybe using draping, gathering or other addition of volume